Hi Drew - I just finished the passenger side rebuild on my car - which, because I am very OCD - took longer than it should have because I took the opportunity to clean and repaint the inner fender/wheel arches before proceeding. I am sure the driver's side (RHD on my car) will go faster, but I am also committing to cleaning and repainting that wheel arch as well - which now needs to wait until the weather is conducive (spray painting - and I am in Northern IL). Feel free to PM me with any questions.
The suggestion I will make, since it is a complete rebuild, is to remove the brakes completely (are you rebuilding those as well?). This enable a lot better access to the lower trunnion assy., and the lower steady bar link bolts, etc. It is not absolutely necessary - but very helpful.
The "eye bolt" is the large diameter pin that holds the lower suspension arm assy. to the chassis leg. It passes through the chassis leg, and may have shims on the outside (wheel arch side) under the circular seat of the pin into which the bushings are located. Once you drive back the lower arm off the torsion bar, you can remove it by undoing the large nut (well over an inch dia. as I recall) which is on the inside/s of the front chassis rails, approximately by the rear of the oil sump/pan.
Removing tension from the system is CRUCIAL before beginning disassembly. You won't kill yourself as with a coil spring that goes flying across your shop, but you will find it almost impossible to drive out the lower link pin without the tension being "neutral" or off the torsion bar. Before I started, I painted a piece of 3/8 plywood flat white (so I could read my notes later made with a sharpie marker), and held it up against the suspension at full droop (brakes removed, chassis legs supported on jack stands, suspension still assembled but on full droop) and drilled holes of corresponding diameter for the upper and lower link bolts (nuts removed), and hedged my bets by measuring the distance to the ground for each, and writing them on the board. By creating this template you will ensure that upon reassembly you will be putting the lower suspension arm on correctly to the exact torsion bar spline location from which it came. Failure to do this will dramatically alter the ride height (either really high or really low - even if only off by one spline).
The torsion bar itself is made of very high grade tool steel, and if you think you will be able to mark the location on the torsion bar with a file or punch, you are wrong. At least I couldn't, and you don't want to bung up the splines in any case.
Once you have completely rebuilt it all, the only real wear item you'll have to replace again will be the upper, outer link. I used urethane bushings for the ones I never want to have to deal with again (eye-bolt, lower link, lower steady-bar), but I used rubber for the upper outer link because the "squishiness" will make it easier to replace in the future - and because I have read many people's reports that using urethane for the upper link results in a big increase in ride/steering harshness.
Best of luck. First one is a bit of an anxiety attack, the other side will have you feeling like an old pro.
Tom
Tom
Source: https://www.morrisminorforum.com/forum/morris-minor-forum.2/rebuilding-suspension.29067/
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